Being...Here

I got into Cagayan de Oro, Misamis Oriental Province, Republic of the Philippines yesterday around noon Friday 1 July. I lucked out and met a nice guy who is now my driver. His name is Toto. Everyone here has nicknames. Once I met him it was like a floodgate, then I had to go meet Cajoe or Joe, Lina, Antoinette, and Mary. I have his number anyway he can drive me around for 500 PHP/day that is a little less than 10 dollars. I am probably going to Camiguin Island tomorrow, so it will be nice to get to the ferry with him instead of on a bus.

So we all went out to eat and drink last night at this place about a half hour out of town, I don't know the name of it, Toto kept saying it was a floating restauraunt. I kept joking that they were taking me to Iligan or Davao to be kidnapped. It turns out the "floating restauraunt" was a pier right on the ocean. It was gorgeous, I took some pictures. We had a great time and San Miguels are 25 PHP here, that is 50 cents.

Other than one guy in the Manila airport I have not seen a single tattoo on anyone man or woman here. They are all quite well dressed no matter how poor, this I suspected from previous visits to the developing world. It is ironic that Americans, especially suburban ones, think it is cool to look poor and "ghetto", mainly because it is so uncool to have money or dress nicely. They should all visit a Barangay for a week. There are no distinctions, other than those that have dignity and those that do not, and if you have any, you dress that way. Dignity is free.

I am having a double culture shock problem because I am accustomed to being in Spanish speaking countries and here I am surrounded by people who basically look hispanic. I keep wanting to go up and speak Spanish to them. When I first arrived yesterday and wandered out of my hotel, I had to come staggering back, the incessant beeping of horns was a cacophany that I didn't want to deal with. It was not clear who had the right of way. At least in New York you can be expected to be run over, here it is not clear. But after walking around this morning I have figured out the reason for the beeping of horns: There are no traffic lights. Not a single one. Further there are *no stop signs*. Each intersection is up for grabs. So people honk just as a courtesy. I read that road rage is absolutely unknown here. That would be confrontational, and Filipinos will do almost anything to avoid an actual confrontation since they often wind up in death or maiming. No one wanders around talking about punks and bitches. Outstanding.

The German government has collapsed. George Bush is going to appoint a S. Ct. justice. Now I know why Shane MacGowan wrote that line "Thank Good Christ for the BBC!" I look through my hotel window at 3AM and there is a dog eating from a pile of trash, a big one, that has been swept or thrown into the street. At 4AM the dog and the trash are gone and the street is wet. I do 125 push ups and wait around for light. I walk out into the predawn and go to the central square. All the people without homes are still asleep, no one disturbs me. I notice two boys sleeping in the plaza. They are maybe 6 years old, orphans, probably brothers. My heart breaks and continues to do so for at least an hour, even though I find a beautiful University grounds, Xavier University, with gardens and benches. Education is very highly desired here. On my return to my hotel I see the boys are still asleep. I can't look, I can't do anything about it. A man has risen and is washing his balls on a side street, standing up. The beeping of horns is commencing, but I can hear birds.

I have only a vague idea of what I am going to do today. People here call me sir all the time, everyone, older people, younger people, men, women, children. That takes getting used to.

They ask

Are you Russian?
Are you Britishman?
In Visayan we call that something else.
I have a friend in London.
May I know your family name please?
Let me introduce you to my friends!

I just stopped to ask where I could find an ATM. I was there for 30 minutes. Well, I would write more but I have more roaming to do. Toto is going to drive me around later. It is 8:30 AM here. It is indeed not uncool to have money, trust me. Or just ask one of my new friends.